Natural Fancy Colour Diamonds

What are fancy colour diamonds and how are they graded

Fancy colour diamonds are natural diamonds with a distinct colour other than white. Unlike white diamonds, where colour is a flaw, in fancy diamonds colour is the primary value factor. Grading follows entirely different criteria: colour is the dominant factor, evaluated for hue, saturation and distribution uniformity. Clarity takes a back seat: a fancy with intense colour and SI2 clarity is worth far more than one with poor colour and VVS clarity. Cut in fancy diamonds does not follow the standards used for white diamonds, and international certificates do not include a synthetic cut quality grade, precisely because there are no fixed ideal proportions as there are for round brilliants.

Colour intensity: the GIA scale for fancy diamonds

The GIA classifies colour intensity in fancy diamonds using 9 grades, from weakest to strongest: Faint, Very Light, Light, Fancy Light, Fancy, Fancy Intense, Fancy Vivid, Fancy Deep, Fancy Dark. The most sought-after and valuable grades are Fancy Intense and Fancy Vivid, indicating a saturated, pure and brilliant colour. A fancy vivid yellow diamond, for example, has such an intense and uniform yellow that it appears almost fluorescent. Beyond intensity, the certificate also lists secondary colours (overtones): a diamond with an "ish" suffix in the certificate, such as "Brownish Yellow" or "Greenish Yellow", has a secondary hue that affects both the visual appearance and the value of the stone.

Fancy diamond shapes and cuts

Fancy diamonds are rarely cut in round brilliant: the most common shapes are oval, cushion, pear, radiant, heart and marquise. This is not a random aesthetic choice: these shapes enhance colour better than the round brilliant and conceal inclusions more effectively. A radiant cut, for example, with its multiple-facet pattern, concentrates colour in the centre of the stone and increases perceived saturation. For this reason, the cut of a fancy diamond should be evaluated primarily on how well it enhances the colour of that specific stone.

The GIA certificate: why it is essential for a fancy diamond

If a certificate is important for a white diamond, for a fancy it is essential. The reason is straightforward: treatment techniques exist (irradiation, HPHT) that artificially alter the colour of a white or low-value diamond, transforming it into an apparent fancy colour stone. To the naked eye, and often even with non-specialised instruments, it is impossible to distinguish a natural colour from a treated one. Only an independent and fully equipped gemological laboratory such as the GIA (Gemological Institute of America, founded in 1931) can certify with certainty that the colour is natural and not induced. All fancy diamonds in this category are accompanied by a GIA, IGI or HRD certificate explicitly confirming the natural origin of the colour. For more information, read our complete article on fancy diamonds.

Fancy diamonds and custom jewellery

Fancy colour diamonds look their best when paired with white diamonds: the contrast between the colour of the central stone and the brilliance of the surrounding brilliants enhances its saturation. Halo-style settings, with one or two rows of brilliants around the central fancy, are among the most popular for this reason. In our goldsmith workshop in Arezzo we craft bespoke rings, pendants and earrings with fancy diamonds of any colour, designing the setting specifically for each individual stone. If you cannot find the fancy you are looking for in the online selection, contact us: we only publish a portion of the stones available.